Some would say it’s like snowboarding, whereas others would say it’s like skateboarding. I, on the other hand, believe surfing is unlike any other sport. Besides it being loads of fun and freeing your mind, it is also a great workout. Problem is, though, many people wonder how to get started and learn what to do. That’s where I come in. First, you need to know the safety precautions.
You absolutely have to know how to swim and be able to swim well. If this is a problem for you, you can easily contact a nearby gym (like YMCA) for and instructor to teach you how. Another growing issue with surfing is the strong currents and tidal waves. There are ways to predict the safety of the water on that particular day, but for now, just ask the nearest lifeguard on duty. Now that you know you are in no major harm, it is time to find the specifications on how you will surf.
Stand up straight and point one of your arms to the sky. This is how long your board should be when you first start learning how to surf. As you get better, you may use shorter boards, which makes the ride a lot faster and thrilling. Next, you will test what stance you will acquire while on the board. To do this, lay your board flat on the sand, then position yourself face down on top of the board. Quickly jump up, and whichever foot is placed in front will be the same foot you lead with when you surf! If you lead with your left foot, you ride ‘regular,’ but if you rest your right foot ahead, you ride ‘goofy.’ Now that you are equipped with all the needed knowledge to start surfing, you are ready to paddle out! As you are making your way out, you may encounter some large waves.
These waves occasionally seem impossible to get around, but there is a way to dodge them. As you see a wave coming, wrap your arms tightly around the board, then flip you and your board over, therefore placing you underwater and your board turned upside down. Because the nose of the board is now pointed downward, the wave will smoothly bypass over you. When you see the wave disappear, you can then flip back over! It is also tricky knowing where to stop paddling and when to start waiting. You don’t want to be too close to the shore, yet you don’t want to be too far either! Positions change daily, and there are multiple ways on figuring out where to position yourself.
One is to know where the current is the strongest and how far apart the waves are from one another. For now, follow other present surfers or ask a lifeguard. Once you ” ve got to your point, it is time to pivot your board so as to face the shore. When you see the swell of water about twenty to thirty feet from you, it is time to start paddling towards land. This is definitely not the time to be slow! Instead, put all of your force into it, otherwise the wave will not catch you, but instead, weave around. When you feel your board teaming up with the current, bring your leading foot up front, then let the following foot slide back.
Lift your hands off the board and slowly stand up, remembering to keep your balance. The main thing now is to keep a good composure. If you now decide to keep your board more perpendicular to the wave, you ” re ride will be a bit slower and easier, but if you face at a thirty to forty degree angle with the wave, you can build speed and have a little more exciting ride. Whichever way you decide to go, you ” re still a rookie and should consider facing your body away from the wave.
Not many people get up on their first try, so if this happens to you, don’t give up! Instead, consider surfing on your knees the first few times. This will get you used to keeping your balance. You ” ll soon realize that surfing is not like snowboarding or skateboarding, but it is a unique sport all on its own! You are now on your way to becoming a pro!